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Why Do People Go to the Gym?

Gary works out!

In 2019 (when people could actually go to gyms) 64.2 million Americans (20%) belonged to a health or fitness club (source). The average monthly cost of a gym membership was $37.71, which of course doesn’t include initiation and enrollment fees (which are stupidly expensive). $35 billion was spent on gym memberships in 2019 alone! That’s more than twice (2.43) the amount spent on the last 4 presidential elections combined! so why do people go to the gym?

When surveyed, members usually give seven reasons for joining a fitness club:

  1. Improve Health
  2. Lose Weight
  3. Look Better
  4. Feel Better
  5. Get/Stay in Shape
  6. Tone Up
  7. Socialize

All of those are good goals to strive for. Losing weight and getting healthier are paramount for high quality of life. I read an article in JAMA once that said:

In this cohort study of 122 007 consecutive patients undergoing exercise treadmill testing, cardiorespiratory fitness was inversely associated with all-cause mortality without an observed upper limit of benefit.

Kyle Mandsager, MD; Serge Harb, MD; Paul Cremer, MD

According to the Journal of the American Medical Association there is no limit to the health benefits of exercising. If you want to live longer and enjoy a better quality of life, you need to exercise.

So are those good reasons to join a gym?

No! I don’t think those are good reasons to join a gym. Look at this picture of the Fitness Connection parking lot. Notice something strange? It’s full of cars. These people got in their car, drove 15 minutes to the gym to exercise for a half-hour, then they drove 15 minutes to go home.

A fitness center parking lot full of cars
So many cars!

They could have saved time by biking 15 minutes to the gym then immediately biking home. More importantly they would also save $40/month. Exercise is great. Everyone should exercise. But you don’t need a gym membership to exercise. Look again at the reasons given for joining a gym:

  1. Improve Health
  2. Lose Weight
  3. Look Better
  4. Feel Better
  5. Get/Stay in Shape
  6. Tone Up
  7. Socialize

All these (with the possible exception of number seven) can be done at home or on a bike trail. The majority of fitness equipment are treadmills, ellipticals, exercise bikes, or weights. None of these require going to a fitness center. Treadmills are just fake walking and walking is free. Ellipticals are just fake running or climbing stairs. Pretty much everyone has access to stairs, either in their homes or around their city. Exercise bikes are just fake bicycles, literally. New bikes are stupidly expensive, but you can find a good bicycle on Craigslist for like $50. Weights are just fake hauling rocks. Rocks are free, but if you want to be more refined then home dumbbells are pretty cheap.

Instead of driving to a fitness center to work out indoors with a bunch of other smelly people, go outside and exercise. The scenery is nicer, the air is fresher, and the Vitamin D is free and plentiful. Walking or biking along a scenic bike trail is much more fun than walking on a treadmill or using an exercise bike in a gym. It’s also better for your physical and mental health.

Most people stop by the gym for an hour before or after work. Instead of that you could save time by biking to work. That way you kill three birds with one stone. You get your exercise in for the day, you don’t have to pay for a gym membership, and you save money on gas! During an internship I biked to work every day, and it helped me feel great for the rest of the day. When I was in grad school I biked to campus so Courtney could have the car. This allowed us to only need one car when were first married, which was a great cost savings on top of the health benefits. Sadly my current job is right off the highway so riding a bicycle would be pretty dangerous. (Though that doesn’t stop some of my coworkers.)

Just save time by biking to the gym then immediately bike home.

The only partially valid reason given is also the least important to those surveyed. Less than 1% of respondents surveyed said socializing was the reason they joined a gym. To me that seems like the best reason to join a gym. The ability to work out with another person makes it much more fun and gives you that extra push to meet your goals. Having another person keeping you accountable may be the motivation you need to get to the gym regularly or to lose a few extra pounds. But even that can be done outside of a fitness center. Call up a friend and make a schedule to go running together.

Courtney and I make an effort to get out and walk along our bike trail several days a week. It’s a fun thing we can do together that helps us stay in shape. We used to go biking together but since having a baby we haven’t gotten to do that. We do however get out the stroller and take him for walks. It’s just nice to get fresh air.

What is a good reason pay for gym membership?

I’m not trying to say that all gyms are dumb and you never pay to exercise. Sometimes joining a gym is the right move for you. I already mentioned the social aspect of gym memberships. A gym can be a community of people working together and encouraging each other in their fitness journey. Don’t underestimate the power that community brings. But if your typical fitness center experience is simply to walk on a treadmill with earbuds in, then you’re better off walking for free outside.

Another good reason for joining a gym is if it gives you something you can’t do otherwise. For example if you enjoy racquetball you may want to join a racquetball gym. Free racquetball courts aren’t necessarily easy to come by, and that way you’ll always have somewhere to play and someone to play with. You may have outgrown the dumbbells you have at home, and may not have space for all the expensive equipment that’s the next step. My wife and I go to a rock climbing gym near our house. I enjoy rock climbing and there’s no natural alternative for it in Kansas. We don’t have much for mountains in the Midwest. The membership is stupidly expensive so instead we opt to get punch passes whenever they go on sale, but the point is we do this because it’s fun, getting ripped and swole is just an added bonus.

There are good reasons to join a gym, but if your reason is just to “improve health” there are several better and cheaper ways to do that. Go for a morning jog, bike to work, eat a salad for lunch. These are just a few better options for getting/staying in shape, but I think the problem runs deeper than just a bad fix for your health. This is endemic of American’s flawed thinking that the best way to solve a problem is to throw money at it.

How to solve a math problem? Throw money at it.
Works for Congress!

This is the same issue I have with Fitbits or Slim4Life or other consumer products that purport to help you get in shape if you buy them. For some people these can be great tools to help, but that’s all they are: tools. For most people out there it’s just companies exploiting that thought that if I only buy this thing I’ll get healthier. If I sign up for this gym I’ll get in shape. If I throw money at this problem it’ll go away.

FIRE is about taking control of your finances so that you don’t have to be a sucker in a job for the rest of your life, but the philosophy spills over into other parts of life as well. Instead of becoming a sucker for some big corporation, take your health into your own hands and just work towards a healthier life. And as a bonus it’ll make you richer too.

Shia Labeouf - Just Do It!

What do you think? Do you belong to a gym, or is the great outdoors your fitness center? Let us know in the comments below!

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Roth or Traditional IRA, Which is Better?

Infinity War IRA Meme

The choice between contributing to a traditional or Roth IRA. It’s been a long-running debate ever since the Roth IRA was created at part of the Taxpayer Relief Act of 1997. As we discussed in the last post, both types of IRAs have valuable tax advantages. Utilizing a traditional IRA allows you to avoid taxes on contributions and gains, but you are taxed on withdrawals. In contrast, with a Roth IRA you are taxed on your contributions, but your gains and withdrawals are tax-free. So which is better? (In this article I’ll be comparing traditional and Roth IRAs, but the principles also apply to traditional and Roth 401(k)’s as well.)

Traditional IRA/401(k)

With a traditional IRA you only pay taxes on withdrawals

Roth IRA/401(k)

With a Roth IRA you only pay taxes on contributions

Why aren’t we discussing taxable brokerage accounts in this argument? I think the decision whether to contribute to an IRA vs a taxable brokerage account should be obvious. Max out your IRA before putting money into a taxable account, since in an IRA you don’t have to pay tax on capital gains. But the choice between a traditional IRA and a Roth IRA is a little harder. Both are good options for investing your savings, and either should be used before contributing to taxable account. For my analysis on which is better for tax avoidance purposes, I assumed:

  • Taxpayers are married filing jointly
  • They are in the second tax bracket ($19,901 to $81,050)
  • They take the standard deduction ($25,100)
  • Inflation affects costs evenly

There is a Definitive Winner

I crunched the numbers and it turns out that the answer is based on your savings rate. If you have a high savings rate, a traditional IRA is better, and if you have a lower savings rate, a Roth IRA is better. The break even point mathematically comes out to be when your IRA contributions can drop your effective tax rate by half. When that happens, you should pick a traditional IRA over a Roth.

If your IRA contributions are less than a certain amount, then it’s better to contribute to a Roth. For example in 2018 the median income for a Midwest family was $64,069/year and their effective tax rate would be 6.6% (after the standard deduction). If this family was regularly contributing $10,000 to a traditional IRA, their effective tax rate would drop to 4.8%, saving them $1,200 in taxes. But when they retire, they would withdraw $54,069/year and incur $3,078 in taxes. This equates to a loss of $1,878 per year due to taxes. So as you can see, we haven’t reached the break even point yet.

If they were contributing $17,900 to a traditional IRA [This is more than the IRA limit, but you could do this with a traditional 401(k) which we already said works in practically the same way], their taxable income drops to $21,069 for an effective tax rate of 3.3%. If they contributed the same amount to a Roth, their taxable income would be $38,969 for an effective tax rate of 6.6%. This is where the break even point is, where contributing to either a traditional or Roth is equally beneficial. If this family were to contribute more than $17,900 they should contribute that money to a traditional IRA, if there were to contribute less, they should opt for a Roth IRA.

What about Inflation?

Again, this is assuming married filing jointly, and taking the standard deduction which is pretty common in the Midwest. This means that all income is taxed in the 10%-12% bracket. The tax code is pretty kind towards Midwest families in that between $19,901 and $81,050 you are only taxed at 12%. And if you include the standard deduction of $25,100 a family can make up to $106,150 before reaching the next tax bracket!

This is also ignoring inflation. Normally I’d get mad at any accountant who ignores inflation, but in this case I think the math works out. The variables that change with inflation are:

  • Income
  • Cost of living
  • 401(k) contributions
  • The standard deduction
  • 401(k) contribution limits
  • Withdrawals (Cost of living in retirement)

Inflation should affect all of these factors evenly (or close enough to be negligible). Below is a table of incomes and which retirement accounts to contribute your savings towards. If a family makes $40,000/year they should contribute up to $5,800 to a Roth 401(k), if they’re saving more than that they should contribute the rest to a traditional.

IncomeRothTraditional
$40,000<$5,800>$5,800
$60,000<$15,800>$15,800
$80,000<$25,800>$25,800
$100,000<$35,800>$35,800

Try it for Yourselves

I uploaded the spreadsheet I created. If you want to test it out with your own income and savings just download it and fill in the two green boxes. The result in the yellow box is how much you’ll save in taxes by choosing a traditional over a Roth IRA. If the result is negative then you’re better off contributing to a Roth IRA.

I have read a few articles stating that a traditional IRA is better, but they are usually assuming dual incomes, large salaries, and high savings rates. However here in the Midwest $80,000/year is considered a high salary and it’s not uncommon to have only one working spouse and the other stays home to take care of the children. So in our case a Roth is almost always a better option.

Tax RateMarried Filing Jointly
10%Up to $19,900
12%$19,901 to $81,050
22%$81,051 to $172,750
24%$172,751 to $329,850
32%$329,851 to $418,850
35%$418,851 to $628,300
37%$628,301 or more
Income tax brackets for married individuals filing joint tax returns

Roth IRA Conversion

There’s also the option of a Roth conversion, which is using a traditional IRA then slowly converting it to a Roth after you retire. If you only convert enough to reach the standard deduction each year, you’ll never have to pay any taxes on it. Of course in 2021 that’s assuming you don’t need more than $25,100/year. Living off that little income is hard, but not impossible, especially if you’ve already paid off your house.

Again this is assuming you have an extremely high savings rate, something that’s hard to do when you only make the median Midwest income of $64,069/year. If you can do it, more power to you! But if you’re closer to the normal end of the savings spectrum, after running the numbers, I’d recommend using a Roth when you can. These principles also apply to 401(k)’s, but as I mentioned in my previous post on what order to contribute to your various retirement accounts, if your company offers a 401(k) match contribute enough to your 401(k) to get the match regardless of whether it’s a traditional or Roth 401(k).

What do you think? Do you agree with my analysis? Do you contribute to a traditional IRA, Roth IRA, or both? Let us know in the comments below!

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Use a 401(k) and Roth IRA for Maximum Efficiency

There are a ridiculous amount of different retirement accounts. To name a few: the Traditional IRA, 401(k), 403(b), and 457(b). There are also Roth variants of each of them. Another that is fairly common is the taxable brokerage account. Which ones should you use as your investment vehicle? And in what order should you contribute your savings into each one? If you need a refresher on financial terms, I have a glossary here. Image source: History.com

For tax purposes the three main types of investment accounts are the Traditional IRA and 401(k), the Roth IRA and 401(k), and the taxable brokerage account. The question is, “What is the best way to use these three accounts to minimize the amount you owe in taxes?”

Three Different Retirement Accounts

Taxable Brokerage Account

taxable brokerage accounts pay taxes on contributions and gains

Traditional IRA/401(k)

With a traditional IRA you only pay taxes on withdrawals

Roth IRA/401(k)

With a Roth IRA you only pay taxes on contributions

The red parts are taxed and the green parts are tax-free. It’s obvious from this graphic that both kinds of IRA/401(k) are better than a brokerage account when it comes to taxes because you are not taxed on gains.

The first thing we have to discuss is availability. The 401(k), 403(b), and 457(b) are all basically the same thing, but only government workers have access to a 403(b) or 457(b). In order to simplify things I’ll only discuss the 401(k), since all of the principles that apply to a 401(k) also apply to a 403(b) and 457(b).

Everyone has access to a taxable brokerage account. There are two different kinds of accounts you can open, an individual account and a joint account. You can have any number of either (although I can’t see any reason why you would need to). You can open one up at any brokerage firm.

Everyone also has access to an IRA as long as they have earned income. As the name implies, you can only open an individual IRA, but a non-working spouse can also open up an IRA and fund it with their joint money (as long as they file taxes jointly). There are age limits for a Traditional IRA and income limits for a Roth IRA.

Traditional IRA: Roth IRA
Pre-TaxAfter Tax
Must be under age 72No age limit
No income limit$198,000 (married filing jointly)

A 401(k) is like an employer-sponsored IRA

Like an IRA there are also traditional and Roth variants of the 401(k). The difference (other than the contribution limits) is that there is no income limit for the Roth 401(k). The real question is whether or not your employer offers a traditional 401(k), or Roth 401(k), or both. Most large employers offer a traditional 401(k). Roths are less common, but they are gaining traction. Also smaller employers are less likely to offer a 401(k).

Traditional 401(k): Roth 401(k)
Pre-TaxAfter Tax
Must be under age 72Must be under age 72
No income limitNo income limit

According to the Bureau of Labor Statistics 56% of companies offer a 401(k). Of those companies, 70% offer a Roth 401(k), and half (51%) match a certain percent of your 401(k) contributions. The average 401(k) match is 3.5%.

If you happen to be one of the lucky people whose company sponsors a 401(k) and offers a 401(k) match, the first thing you should do is contribute enough to get your full 401(k) match. If they match everything you contribute up to 4% of your salary, then you need to contribute 4% to get your full match. That’s free money! Don’t just leave it on the table. If you contribute $3000 and your company matches that $3000, that’s a 100% return on investment. There is no other investment that will give you a 100% return in a year!

Example – Use a 401(k) and a Roth IRA

Let’s pretend you’re a typical Midwestern family with a single income earner that makes $60,000/year. Your company offers a traditional 401(k) and will match your contributions up to 3.5% of your salary. If you want to save 15% of your income that would be $9,000/year. My first suggestion after setting up your 401(k) would be to open up a Roth IRA for both you and your spouse.

  1. First 3.5% goes in your Traditional 401(k)
  2. The next $6,000 goes into your Roth IRA
  3. Any leftover savings go into your spouse’s Roth IRA
  4. * (If you are really saving a lot or make a higher salary, after maxing out both of your Roth IRAs, the next step is to put any leftover savings into your 401(k) again.)
  5. ** (If you still have more savings after maxing out your 401(k), put the rest into a joint taxable brokerage account. This is probably not applicable since you would have to be saving more than $31,500.)

I believe this is the most efficient way to save for retirement. For the first step you get to claim your full company match in your 401(k) and you get to decrease your taxes by 3.5%. In the second and third steps you max out your Roth IRA and put the leftovers into your spouse’s IRA. This doesn’t decrease your taxes this year, but allows you to take out all your money (including gains) tax free at 59½.

But that’s not all. Before you’re 59½ you can take out any money you’ve contributed to a Roth IRA. (You can’t withdraw the gains without paying a 10% penalty, but you can withdraw contributions because you’ve already paid the taxes on that money.) This makes the Roth IRA the perfect tool not only for retirement, but also for an emergency fund or college fund etc. You get the interest of the stock market, but you can withdraw the money you’ve contributed whenever you need it.

What if your company offers a Roth 401(k)?

If your company offers a Roth 401(k) I would pick that over the traditional 401(k), but I would keep the steps the same:

  1. First 3.5% goes in your Roth 401(k)
  2. The next $6,000 goes into your Roth IRA
  3. Any leftover savings go into your spouse’s Roth IRA

The advantage of a Roth 401(k) is that you can roll it over into your Roth IRA and not have to pay any taxes in retirement.

The other advantage of maxing out your IRA before your 401(k) is that you have more control over what funds you can invest in. With a 401(k) you only have the investment options that your company provides. Sometimes these options aren’t great, or have high management expense ratios. There was a bit of a scandal a few years ago when it was exposed that many 401(k) providers charged unnecessarily high fees. Since that scandal broke and the lawsuits followed, most 401(k) providers now offer a regular S&P 500 Index Fund with lower fees so they are much better than they were before.

So that’s my recommendation. I have read a few articles that claim a Traditional IRA/401(k) is better for tax purposes but most of those are Silicon Valley types making the assumption of high salaries. For a typical Midwest family I believe a Roth IRA/401(k) is the better option. I go into detail about the math of that claim in Roth or Traditional IRA, Which is Better?

What do you think? Do you agree with my analysis? Do you contribute to a 401(k), IRA, or both? Let us know in the comments below!

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What Investments to Actually Buy

When you read about investing you hear a lot of jargon, most of which we hopefully explained in the last post. You hear a lot of about asset allocation and risk tolerance and financial planning, but you’re rarely told what is a wise investment. The closest you get is someone telling you what to invest in, and when that happens you’re probably better off not following their advice because it’s some speculative stock or startup company. So what is a wise investment? What investments should you actually buy? Source: xkcd.com

One of the simplest and most efficient ways to invest is what’s called the Three Fund Portfolio, so named because it only invests in three different funds. It’s also called the Lazy Portfolio. A Three Fund Portfolio consists of an American total stock market index fund (which we recommended in our post What is Financial Independence), an international total stock market index fund and a total bond market index fund.

With just these three funds an investor can invest in over 10,000 different assets and securities all over the world!

The idea of this simple set of index funds is that you’ll get exposure to the American stock market, the international market, and the bond market. The American stock market is probably the greatest wealth-creation tool ever created. Most other countries have their own stock exchanges as well so with the international market you can invest in companies from those countries. The third fund covers bonds, which are basically government and corporate money-raising programs. So with just these three funds an investor can invest in over 10,000 different assets and securities all over the world!

So why these three funds?

According to our definition from the last article, index funds just try to replicate an index (basically a really fancy Excel spreadsheet). These three funds are replicating the Total Stock Index, the Total International Index, and the Total Bond Index. That means they will never under-perform the market as a whole, since they represent the entire market. Also being index funds, they have low expense ratios. Remember, the expense ratio (MER) is the percent of your invested money that is charged in management fees. Index funds can have a very low MER because there is no need for a manager to pick stocks – it just follows the index. While actively managed funds can have expense ratios of 1-2%, Charles Schwab’s S&P 500 fund charges just 0.02%. 1/100th of the cost!

These funds also have several advantages: diversification (lots of different companies and asset classes), low turnover (less in taxes), and being easy to rebalance (since you only need to keep track of three funds).

Asset Allocation

Remember, asset allocation is the ratio of assets that you choose to hold. Since we are only talking about three funds, the ratio stays pretty simple. This is the ratio of American stocks to international stocks to bonds. What asset allocation should you have? A good starting point is 30% US Total Stock Market, 30% International Stock Market, and 40% total Bond Market. This follows the traditional 60/40 split between stocks and bonds. And it also splits US and international markets by weight since the US claims half of the entire world’s economy.

An advantage of deciding on a set asset allocation is that these three funds are not necessarily correlated. When stocks do well, bonds do not. If international stocks fall, US stocks could also fall or they could rise. When US stocks crater, US bonds go up. For example in March of 2020 when the stock market lost 30%, bonds went up 5%. This not only helps you weather storms, it also gives you a chance to make money. If in March of 2020 when your bonds are up 5%, you sold that extra 5% and used it to buy US stocks. Then in April when the stock market started to go back up you would have had that extra 5% increase in your investments.

Rebalancing

This is what is known as rebalancing. Rebalancing is when you sell some of your winners to purchase the funds that aren’t doing so hot. This may seem counterintuitive, but it allows you sell when asset prices are high and buy when they are on sale. This way you keep your desired asset allocation and survive through market crashes.

(As a note: I have very little in bonds right now as bond yields are so low. When they increase in a year or two I will start buying more bonds to get back to that 60/40 split. Also, if you are more than about 10 years away from retirement, I wouldn’t have 40% of my investment in bonds. I would focus more on pre-paying my mortgage or getting out of debt.)

So what funds should I actually invest in?

It depends on who you are investing with. While the funds are all basically the same since they replicate the same indexes, the actual ticker names are different.

For Vanguard the three funds are:

  • VTSAX – Vanguard Total Stock Market Index Fund
  • VTIAX – Vanguard Total International Stock Index Fund
  • VBTLX – Vanguard Total Bond Market Fund

For Schwab they are:

  • SWTSX – Schwab Total Stock Market Index Fund
  • SWISX – Schwab International Index Fund
  • SWAGX – Schwab U.S. Aggregate Bond Index Fund

For Fidelity you have options so that could be better or worse depending on how simple you want it:

  • FZROX – Fidelity ZERO Total Market Index Fund, or FSKAX – Fidelity Total Market Index Fund
  • FZILX – Fidelity ZERO International Index Fund, or FTIHX – Fidelity Total International Index Fund
  • FXNAX – Fidelity U. S. Bond Index Fund

These are just three examples. I personally invest using Schwab and I have SWTSX, SWISX, and SWAGX. For Schwab’s Total Stock Market Index Fund (SWTSX) the expense ratio is 0.03%, their International Index Fund (SWISX) has an expense ratio of 0.06%, and their U.S. Aggregate Bond Index Fund (SWAGX) has an expense ratio of 0.04%. This means at a 30/30/40 split asset allocation, the average expense ratio is 0.043% meaning for every $1,000 invested I would pay $0.43 per year. This is why the Three Fund Portfolio out-performs nearly every professional investment portfolio, It’s simple enough that anyone can do it and it costs almost nothing in fees.

What do you think? Which funds are you invested in? Let us know in the comments below!