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Common Financial Terms

Unikitty infiltrating the Octan Tower

So you’re ready to start your FIRE journey. You start looking at articles and videos about finances and investing, but you run into so much jargon! Finance articles all use the same jargon: Equities vs fixed income, securities, asset allocation, risk, but these words don’t mean much to the common investor. Honestly, you don’t even need to understand most of it. Here’s a list of the important common financial terms and their definitions. (Picture source: Attyca)

Common terms you need to know

Equities vs Fixed Income: Equities are another name for stocks because by owning a share of stock, you own a share of the equity in a company. Fixed income is just a fancy term for bonds because when you own a bond, the bond issuer pays you a fixed amount based on the contract of the bond when you bought it. The income is fixed even if the price/value of the bond changes.

Securities or Assets: An asset is anything that increases in value. This means that a house is an asset. Securities are publicly traded assets like stocks and bonds. There are other securities like gold or real estate investment trusts, but for the sake of simplicity the two most important securities are stocks and bonds.

Mutual Funds: a bundle of many different securities. There are mutual funds that hold healthcare company stocks, or utilities, or pretty much anything you can think of. There’s even a video game mutual fund. Mutual funds are safer than buying individual stocks because it’s harder for all of the stocks in a fund to go down at the same time. Unlike stock you don’t have to buy a whole share of a mutual fund. For example you purchase $100 worth of a mutual fund even if that is 1.23 shares.

ETF: Exchange Traded Fund, very similar to a mutual fund but you have to buy it in whole units. The price per share is usually less than a mutual fund. Sometimes they have lower expense ratios than their equivalent mutual funds.

Index: A marker of a segment of the stock market. This is not a fund in an of itself, its more like a spreadsheet of assets. An example of an index is the S&P 500 Index which tracks the 500 largest US companies, weighted by market cap (how much the entire company is worth). This index is widely regarded as the best gauge of the overall stock market. The Dow Jones Industrial Index (DJIA) tracks 30 large multinational companies that have been in existence for many years, weighted by stock price. The Nasdaq Composite Index tracks 2500 companies and is 50% technology stocks.

There are also indexes for securities other than stocks. For example there is an aggregate bond index which tracks government and company bonds. There are housing and real estate indexes, and even gold and silver indexes.

Index Fund: A mutual fund or ETF that tries to replicate an Index. For example an S&P 500 Index Fund will try to replicate the S&P 500 Index by having the same amounts of the same companies. Index funds generally have very low expense ratios because they don’t have a manager who is trying to pick winning stocks. They just follow the index.

(Expense ratio) MER: Expense Ratio, also called Management Expense Ratio, is the percent of your invested money that is charged in management fees. For example if you have $10,000 in a mutual fund and the MER is 1%, you will owe $100/year. Typically the expense ratio is higher for actively managed funds (1%-2%) and lower for index funds (<0.5%). Index funds can have a very low MER because there is no need for a manager to pick stocks – it just follows the index.

The idea of an actively managed fund is that a smart fund manager (and his extensive team of financial analysts) can pick the best stocks to put into his fund. The expense ratio is the fee that he charges to help you beat the general stock market. The hope is that an actively managed fund will out-perform the general stock market by more than the 1%-2% fee it charges, but when you look at the last 15 years, 90% of actively managed funds not only failed to beat the market by 1%-2%, they actually underperformed the general market. So the expense ratio is essentially a fee you pay to have some financial manager perform worse than you would by yourself.

Another reason is that actively managed funds are buying and selling stocks to try to get ahead, but every time you sell a stock you have to pay taxes on it. Therefore actively managed funds have a higher tax burden as well.

Asset Allocation: This is the ratio of assets that you choose to hold. For example if you have 60% of your money in stocks and 40% in bonds you have a 60/40 asset allocation. Your asset allocation determines your risk. Since stocks are riskier than bonds a 60/40 asset allocation will be less risky than a 90/10 spit.

Your asset allocation should change as you grow older and closer to retirement. When you are younger it doesn’t matter how bad the stock market crashes, because you are still putting money into your retirement savings. The average market correction lasts 6 months, so if you are more than a couple years away from retirement, don’t worry about it.

If you are less than 5 years away from retirement you should be more conservative. A 60/40 stock/bond asset allocation is a good way to be able to weather market corrections while still allowing your nest egg to grow. The way to do this is to sell some of your stocks and use the money to purchase bonds.

Traditional IRA: An IRA, which stands for Individual Retirement Account, is a savings account that allows individuals to contribute a limited amount per year. As of 2021 people under 50 years old may contribute up to $6,000 per year and deduct those contributions from their taxable income. When in an IRA money can be invested in the stock market without having to pay dividend or capital gains tax. After the individual has reached age 59½ they may withdraw their money from their IRA. The withdrawals are then taxed at their current tax rate. A traditional IRA is considered a tax-deferred account because you don’t pay taxes on the money you contribute to your IRA, but you do pay taxes on what you withdraw. Also if you withdraw from a traditional IRA before you reach age 59½ you will have to pay a 10% penalty on top of the taxes.

Roth IRA: A Roth IRA is like a traditional IRA only you don’t get to deduct your contributions from you taxable income. The upside is that you don’t have to pay taxes on your withdrawals. This means that none the money that you get in interest or dividends is taxed. Another upside is that since you already paid taxes on your contributions, you can withdraw that money before you turn 59½ (though you still have to wait to withdraw the interest accrued or you’ll get slapped with a 10% penalty). Because of this perk, a Roth IRA can be an extremely helpful tool in pursuing early retirement. So which is better, a traditional IRA or a Roth IRA?

401(k): A 401(k) is very similar to an IRA (there are both traditional and Roth variants). The difference is that a 401(k) is employer sponsored. This means that you only get the investment opportunities that the employer has agreed to. They are usually target date funds and index funds so that’s fine. The advantage is that your employer may match some contributions you make to your 401(k) so that’s free money! Also the contribution limits on a 401(k) are $19,500 in 2021. That’s more than three times as much as you can contribute to an IRA.

Taxable account: This is a regular investment account also called a brokerage account. The money put into this account can be used to invest in the stock market. Unlike an IRA or 401(k) you can put as much money into this account as you and want and can withdraw money whenever you want. The downside is that you have to pay taxes on interest, dividends, and capital gains.

Dividend: A distribution of some of a company’s earnings to shareholders. When a company makes a profit for the year it has options for how it can use the money. It can hold onto the cash for a future time, it can use the profits to buy more equipment or capacity, or it can give money to its shareholders. All of these options increase the value of the company which then makes the stock valuable. Holding cash increases the company’s bottom line, investing in itself to increase capacity will make the company more profitable in the future, and passing profits along to shareholders makes the company’s stock more valuable to investors. Bigger companies that don’t have the ability to expand usually pay out higher dividends because they can’t find better things to do with the money.

Capital Gains: Capital gains are the profits you make on selling an asset. For example if you purchase you house for $200,000 and later sell it for $300,000 you capital gain is $100,000. In the case of the stock market, if you purchase 10 shares of a stock or index fund at $20/share and you sell them 20 years later for $100/share, your capital gains are $80 times the 10 shares or $800. If these stocks were held in a taxable brokerage account you would have to pay capital gains taxes on that $800 profit. If they were in an IRA or 401(k) you wouldn’t have to pay capital gains taxes on that $800 profit.

Short Term vs. Long Term Capital Gains: The IRS puts capital gains into two different categories, short term and long term capital gains. Short term capital gains are profits made from assets held for less than a year, and long term capital gains are profits made from assets held for more than a year. The reason for this distinction is because they are taxed at different rates.

Short term capital gains are taxed at you normal income tax level whereas long term capital gains are taxed at a much more convenient rate. This is to encourage people to buy assets (like index funds) and hold them until they retire. As you can see below a married couple filing jointly can sell stock for a profit of $80,800 every year without having to pay the IRS a dime. But if they didn’t hold the stock for a full year they would have to pay about $9,000 in taxes on that $80,000.

Tax rateTaxable income bracketTax owed
10%$0 to $19,90010% of taxable income
12%$19,901 to $81,050$1,990 plus 12% of the amount over $19,900
22%$81,051 to $172,750$9,328 plus 22% of the amount over $81,050
24%$172,751 to $329,850$29,502 plus 24% of the amount over $172,750
32%$329,851 to $418,850$67,206 plus 32% of the amount over $329,850
35%$418,851 to $628,300$95,686 plus 35% of the amount over $418,850
37%$628,301 or more$168,993.50 plus 37% of the amount over $628,300
The regular tax rate for married couples, filing jointly
Long-term capital gains tax rateInvestment income bracket
0%$0 to $80,800
15%$80,001 to $501,600
20%$501,601 or more
The long-term capital gains tax rate for married couples, filing jointly

Inflation: Inflation is the gradual rise in costs of goods and services. As a result of inflation, the purchasing power of the dollar decreases. The Federal Reserve attempts to keep inflation at around 3% per year. As a general rule this means that prices will double roughly every 20 years. This is important to remember for retirement because if you plan to retire in 20 years assume that things will cost twice as much as they do now.

Required Minimum Distribution (RMD): If you have a traditional or Roth 401(k) or traditional IRA, the IRS requires you to take withdrawals of at least a certain minimum by April 1 of the year following the year you reach age 72. This is to make sure they get their cut of your taxes. If you don’t withdraw at least the required minimum distribution, you get slapped with a penalty of 50% of that value. However if you have a Roth IRA there are no required minimum distributions because you have already paid taxes on that money.

This isn’t an exhaustive list of financial terms by any stretch of the imagination, but I hope it’ll be enough to at least get you started. What do you think? Did I miss any important jargon or fail to explain something clearly enough? Let us know in the comments below, and I’ll update this page!

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Cars for Smart People – How to Find the Best Car

Buying a car can be really stressful, what are some good cars for smart people? Using the 6 tips we came up with in part 1, we will show you how to find the best car. Remember the tips are:

  1. Never buy a new car
  2. Don’t buy cars expecting to sell them later
  3. Buy a car based on reliability
  4. Never buy the remodel year
  5. Take your time when buying a car
  6. Do your research when buying a car

According to the manufacturer quality index ratings given by dashboard-light, three of the top five car brands are owned by Toyota: Lexus, Scion, and of course Toyota. Remember in tip number one in the last post that luxury cars lose roughly half their value in the first three years, so don’t buy a luxury or expensive car. So that rules out Lexus, Hummer, Porsche, Mercedes, and Infiniti–unless you’re getting something that’s more than 15 years old. A used Lexus is basically the same as its Toyota equivalent.

Honda is number 8 on the list, and the only brand that’s not a Toyota or a luxury car. And every brand below it is rated at 50% or worse. This isn’t to say that all of the vehicles from a highly rated brand are good or all vehicles from a poorly rated brand are trash. This is just an average. For example Ford has a quality rating of 28%, but the current F-150s are very reliable – 95%.

The best car might be a Toyota
Three of the top five car brands are owned by Toyota

Step 1 Find a Car Maker

As an example of how to decide on a car to buy let’s look at Honda. Its overall quality rating is a 60% so good, but not super great. Dashboard-light then gives you ratings for individual car models. The Accord gets a 52%, the Civic gets a 71% and the CR-V gets a 78%. There are other models of course, but let’s say you’re looking for a sedan, and since 71% is better than 52%, you opt for the Civic. It’s also smaller, cheaper, and gets better fuel economy.

I use dashboard-light when finding the best car
The best car has a high reliability score

After selecting the Honda Civic, it’ll send you to a page with the last several model generations. From these pictures below you can see that in the early 90’s the Civic wasn’t very reliable, but over the last 30 years it has continued to get better. The 2012-2019 model generation has a reliability score of 94%! (I wish I could have done that well in college.) The rate of powertrain defects is currently less than 5%, well below the industry average.

Step 2 Check Model Year

Armed with this information we then head over to Consumer Reports. On the Honda Civic page they have every model from 2000 to present along with their price, reliability verdict, and owner satisfaction. In the 2006-2011 generation CR reports that 2006 and 2008 had a reliability verdict of 3/5 whereas 2007 and 2009-2011 had a reliability verdict of 4/5. The 2006 model has 15 safety recalls whereas the 2011 model only has 9. This matches up with tip number 4: Never buy a remodel year. Wait until it’s been iterated upon and improved.

The next generation is 2012-2015. Consumer Reports has a reliability verdict of 5/5 for all of these. Then there is the 2016-2020 generation 2016 has a 2/5, 2017-19 has a 3/5, and 2020 has a 5/5 reliability. This, again, is understandable given that 2016 was the remodel year. This highlights one of the issues with buying a new car. Even if the last several years are great quality that doesn’t means that the next year will be good. The 2016 Civic is an illustration of this.

So in conclusion, after we followed all the steps, we’ve narrowed our search down to the 2012-2015 Honda Civic. All 4 of these years have a 5/5 reliability verdict and less than 3 safety recalls. Usually I recommend staying away from the remodel year, but the 2012 Civic seems great if you want it a little cheaper. The next step is to search through Honda-dedicated forums or maintenance issue forums to get a fuller picture of what you’re buying.

Using these steps, here are a few other cars I’ve found that are good.

  • Toyota Corolla – Pretty much any year except the 2019 model. Also don’t get the hatchback. Hatchbacks are great, but the Corolla hatchback is still too new.
  • Toyota Camry – Pretty much any year. Starting in 2018 they switched from a 6-speed automatic to an 8-speed and there were some issues with that, so you might want to stick to a pre-2018 model.
  • Toyota Yaris 2007-2020 except 2009 ($5,050 – $18,175) – The Yaris was discontinued after 2020 because Toyota sold more Corollas in a month than they did Yaris’s in a year, but they’ll keep making parts for decades to come and now that it’s discontinued, used ones will be cheaper.
  • Toyota Sienna 2010-2016 ($6,975 – $17,700) – Even with Toyota’s superior quality, they haven’t made a great minivan since 2016.
  • Honda Odyssey 2016 ($17,650) – For being the go-to minivan for families, most model years are actually quite unreliable. You’re probably better off with a Toyota Sienna.
  • Honda Civic 2012-2015 ($7,675 – $13,350)
  • Honda Fit 2009-2013 ($6,450 – $9,375). 2017-2019 ($14,900 – $16,875)
  • Honda Accord 2009-2017 ($7,275 – $18,450)
  • Mazda 3 2012-2018 $7,725 – $16,225)
  • Mazda 6 2014-2019 ($10,400 – $22,475)
  • Nissan Leaf 2013-2017, 2019 ($5,325 – $9,600, $18,725) – The Leaf is a special case because it is electric. Dashboard-light http://www.dashboard-light.com/vehicles/Nissan_Leaf.html gives Nissan an overall quality rating of 27%, but gives the Leaf a 100% reliability rating and CR mostly gives it a 5/5. Because it is electric there are no engine or transmission issues that normal cars face. It has its own set of problems like the battery needing replacing, but as far as reliability the Leaf is in a class by itself. CR states that it is much more reliable than any other electric car. You’ll notice the drastic change in price between 2019 and 2017. Electric cars are like luxury cars in that a huge amount of depreciation happens in the first few years. This is because Li-Ion batteries are getting exponentially cheaper to produce. I’m seriously considering getting one for my next car because my commute is about 30 miles round trip and at 3.5 cents/mile the Leaf is about three times cheaper than my current car which gets ~30 miles per gallon.

These are a few good quality cars I’ve identified, but of course just taking my recommendations at face value would violate tip number 6. Do you own research folks! This is not an exhaustive list nor are you automatically an idiot for buying an unreliable or new car. Maybe you really want to get a Audi. They’re not cheap or reliable, but if you do your research, find a good year, and know what you’re getting yourself into, that’s what makes someone a smart car buyer.

What do you think? How much research did you guys put into buying your vehicles? Did it pay off? Let us know in the comments below.

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Cars for Smart People – 6 Tips for Buying a Car

According to Kelly Blue Book the average new car now costs over $40,000. KBB (kbb.com) calculated the average transaction price for a light vehicle in the U.S. to $40,857 as of January 2021. $40,000 is a jaw-dropping amount of money, even for a brand new car. To be fair this number is for transaction price, so it most-likely include taxes and title and license fees, but even still no smart person should pay $40,000 for a new car. Here are 6 tips for buying a car.

Smart people should never buy a new car

Everyone knows that cars depreciate as soon as they’re driven off the lot, but how much they depreciate depends on the car. More expensive cars depreciate the most in an absolute value sense, but they also depreciate the most as a percentage of original value. A luxury car will lose half its value in three years, but a cheaper economy car will hold its value. For example between 2018 and 2021 the BMW 3 series sedan has depreciated by about 45% whereas the Toyota Corolla has only lost about 10% of its value in that same time. Source: Consumer Reports

Smart people don’t buy cars expecting to sell them later

Smart people know that cars are not assets. Assets are things that appreciate in value over time. Cars do the opposite, making them a liability. They way to get the most value out of your car is to drive them until the wheels fall off. This literally happened to me in high school. We bought a junker, and I drove it until a wheel actually fell off. We put a new (rebuilt) engine in it then drove it for 10 more years until the transmission failed at over 200,000 miles.

The cost to own a car is an exponentially decreasing curve, meaning it costs much more to own at the beginning of its life than near the end. People often make the mistake of thinking it’s the other way around because of maintenance costs, but the cost to maintain a newer car is almost always more because newer cars are more complex. The point where this truth fails is when you finally blow the engine or transmission.

XKCD - buy a new camera instead of a car
Source xkcd.com

Smart people buy cars based on reliability

Whenever you see someone review a new car, they discuss things like how it looks, how it handles, how difficult the Bluetooth is to connect to. They’ll spend pages on how the rims or the seats look, but always fail to mention whether or not it’ll suffer engine failure in 5 years. Chryslers are nice looking cars that handle pretty well. They also happen to be one of the most unreliable brands available.

Reliability is the most important aspect of a car. No one wants their car to suddenly stop working. It’s a safety hazard, it’s annoying, and it’s expensive. When spending possibly tens of thousands of dollars on a car, why would you care about how it looks over how reliable it is? But that’s literally every car reviewer ever. I’ve never read a review that mentioned reliability. I think Consumer Reports is the only place that actually takes data on car reliability.

Smart people never buy the remodel year car

Never buy a car on the remodel year. Every few years a car company will re-design their car. This is important to keep it new and fresh. But “new and fresh” is for suckers. What smart people want is “old and reliable”. Car companies often use the phrase “Re-engineered from the ground up”. You don’t want that. Anyone who’s ever worked with engineers knows that “re-engineered from the ground up” means “we’ve made a lot of new mistakes that we aren’t yet aware of”. Instead what you want is “Iterated and improved upon for many years”. It sounds less flashy, but there’s a reason the remodel year of every car ever is the year with the most issues and recalls. A good example of this is the 2011 – 2014 generation of the Hyundai Sonata (the car I drive). The 2011 model is the remodel year and it has 14 recalls for safety problems. The 2014 model is the last year of this generation. It only has 6 safety recalls. Buy the model right before the remodel year.

Another problem with buying a new car is that you don’t know the reliability. You can follow trends and make educated guesses based on the reliability of past models, but that doesn’t always work. Just look at the Honda Odyssey minivan. It has been a staple of safety and reliability for decades. My parent’s 2002 Odyssey still runs like a champ. Then one year the Odyssey just didn’t live up to the hype. An advantage of buying a used car is that you have time to see if it is a dud or not. Even if the price were the same, I would buy a used car for exactly this reason.

“Re-engineered from the ground up” means “we’ve made a lot of new mistakes that we aren’t yet aware of”

Smart people take their time when buying a car

Cars are a need and obviously time is not a luxury that everyone has when they absolutely need to buy a car. But smart car buyers are ones who do their research before they have an immediate need. If you know your car is on its last legs spend that time researching newer cars so that when yours finally bites the dust you can immediately make the purchase.

I’d recommend against buying from a dealer, but if you do go the dealer route, smart people never buy the car the first time at the dealer. Smart people leave and go to another dealer and look at the same car. Dealerships are in the business of selling cars and they want your business. The key is to make them need you more than you need them. Let them sweat a little and then came back. You’re sure to get a better deal a day or two later.

The one thing that all of these points have in common is that smart people do their research.

Buying a car is a huge decision. $40,000 may be a foolish amount of money to spend, but even a cheap used car will set you back $10,000. Smart people don’t just flippantly make $10,000 decisions, they gather all of the data they can find and weigh it to make the best decision they can. Sites like https://www.consumerreports.org, https://www.edmunds.com/, or http://www.dashboard-light.com/ give valuable information that can make buying a car much easier.

For example dashboard-light has an index of the quality of car makers and models. We can see from this graph that Toyota has a quality rating of 83 (out of 100) and Dodge has a 36. By this scale Toyota is 2.3 times as good as Dodge yet for some reason people still buy Dodges. I’m not saying never buy something that isn’t a Toyota. Maybe you’re really into the Dodge Challenger, but never buy a car without doing your research first.

Dashboard-light is a free resource that everyone should use, but Consumer Reports costs money. Should you pay for a consumer reports subscription? CR costs $39/year. It’s bad to have subscriptions on auto-renew when you don’t use them, but it’s definitely not a bad idea to sign up for it if you are planning to buy a car in the next few months. Paying $39 in order to help you make the best decision when spending $20,000 is a very good use of your money.

Follow these tips to be a smart car buyer

  1. Never buy a new car
  2. Don’t buy cars expecting to sell them later
  3. Buy a car based on reliability
  4. Never buy the remodel year
  5. Take your time when buying a car
  6. Do your research when buying a car

In part 2 we’ll apply these tips to actual cars in order to see whether specific cars would be smart purchases. We will look at a series of different makes, models, and years, and identify some good cars and some that don’t make the cut. I may even break a few of my own rules, and show you when it might be a good idea to do so as well. All in all, we will just discuss actual cars and how to apply what we’ve learned to car shopping.

What do you think? How do you go about buying a car? Let us know in the comments below!

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Is it True that 40% of Americans Don’t have $400 in the Bank?

You’ve all heard the statistic that 40% of Americans don’t have $400 for an emergency. That seems pretty dire! $400 is not that much money in the grand scheme of things. In many cases $400 would not cover rent, a maintenance bill, or even groceries for the month. If this statistic is to be believed, this leaves over 130 million Americans just one step away from financial ruin. So where did this 40% figure come from and is it true?

Page 21 of the Report on the Economic Well-Being of U.S. Households in 2017 starts off by saying “Four in 10 adults in 2017 would either borrow, sell something, or not be able pay if faced with a $400 emergency expense.” News outlets and politicians have run with this to say that 40% of Americans don’t even have $400 in the bank. It makes for a pretty catchy headline and newspapers exist to be sold. But you know what they say, “There are three kinds of lies: lies, d***** lies, and statistics.”

“There are three kinds of lies: lies, d***** lies, and statistics.”

Anonymous

There are problems with all statistics, which is why the methodology must be published alongside the survey. This is also why there are entire classes devoted to statistical bias. In this case, the survey was about how the respondents would choose to pay a $400 emergency expense, and they were allowed to pick more than one answer. The actual responses add up to more than 100%.

The actual data can be seen here.

Question EF3

Suppose that you have an emergency expense that costs $400. Based on your current financial situation, how would you pay for this expense? If you would use more than one method to cover this expense, please select all that apply.

143% answered so it's can't be true that 40% of Americans Don’t have $400 in the bank.

The total adds up to 143% so obviously this data is flawed. The 40% number is taken from the adding all of the responses that weren’t “Put it on my credit card and pay it off in full at the next statement” or “With the money currently in my checking/savings account or with cash”. These answers together comes in at 59%. 59% divided by 143% comes out to about 41%.

So the math works out, but does it make sense? What if one participant surveyed responded with “With the money currently in my checking/savings account or with cash” and another marked all of the responses? They would both be able to pay a $400 bill with cash, but the “percent of respondents who would either borrow, sell something, or not be able pay if faced with a $400 emergency expense” would be 7/10 or 70%. See how disingenuous that is?

A better gauge of the American financial situation might be seen in question EF5.

Question EF5A. Which best describes your ability to pay all of your bills in full this month? 78% responded with “Able to pay all of bills”.

Question EF5B. How would a $400 emergency expense that you had to pay impact your ability to pay your other bills this month? 85% responded with “Would still be able to pay all bills”.

Why would more people be able to pay all of their bills after a $400 emergency than before? This just adds to my suspicion that the 40% number is flawed. It’s possible that Question EF5B is only asked of the 78% who affirmatively in part A, but the report does not say that.

This report was cited later that year in a study by Neil Bhutta and Lisa Dettling, which found that 76% of families have at least $400 in liquid savings, and 40% have at least 3 months of expenses saved up. This directly contradicts the commonly quoted 40% number.

The original question was asking how the respondent would pay a $400 emergency expense, not whether they had the cash to pay it. While the answers are probably correlated with general financial health, there are plenty of reasons why someone who had the money would choose not to pay for an unexpected bill in cash. This survey isn’t saying that 40% of Americans don’t have $400 to pay for an emergency.

How bad are the typical family’s finances?

America’s finances are not great, that’s definitely true. For example the average household has $6,270 in credit card debt. That’s a shocking amount considering the average interest rate on credit cards is 18%. But it’s not all bad news, 47% of respondents in this study said they have never carried an unpaid balance on their credit cards. Almost half of Americans have never had credit card debt!

The FIRE movement has gained considerable traction in the last few years, and between that and the pandemic Americans’ personal savings rates have shot up. The average savings rate for 2020 was 16% and the high in April 2020 was 33.7%! That’s almost 5 times as much as the ~7% it had been at for the previous 5 years.

If the personal savings rate stayed at 16% everyone could afford to retire early assuming they invested those savings. So I think that while Americans in general are bad at delayed gratification and that clearly manifests itself in their financial situation, the actual truth is much brighter than we’re being led to believe.

Furthermore when looking at the Economic Well-Being survey from 2019 (two years later), the percentage of people who could pay cash for a $400 pop-up expense has actually increased by 28% over the last 7 years. That’s good news! Americans are getting better financially! But good news doesn’t sell headlines, so you’re probably going to keep seeing doom and gloom. At least now you’re prepared.

Now you know.
Knowing is half the battle – G. I. JOE

What do you think? Is the typical American drowning in debt or is the mainstream media more interested in clicks than truth? Let us know in the comments below!